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These photographs and interviews explore the lives of Bhutanese women living in five different nunneries.
In many parts of Himalayan region, the number of women joining Tibetan Buddhist nunneries is in decline, or else institutions face political and other challenges, and struggle to remain open. In Bhutan, however, nunneries have begun to flourish. In 1960, the country had two nunneries. Today, there are over thirteen.
The Promise:
“When I made a request to join the nunnery, it was not just a request. It was a commitment. If I break this, I’ll not be worthy of the commitment I have made.” –Tshering Bidha, 29, monastic prefect, Jachung Karmo nunnery, Punaka.
When Tshering Bidha first asked her parents for permission to join the nunnery, they refused, believing their daughter was filled with fanciful thoughts and lacked the conviction required to devote herself to a spiritual life.
Defying her parent’s orders, Tshering Bidha, then called Chimi Wangmo, stole away from home at the age of eighteen and followed an elderly nun, Ani Pelden, from her village up to the remote, cliff top nunnery. She has stayed at the nunnery ever since, and consequently made her parents proud.
Today, Tshering Bidha feels more resolved than ever to keep her promise to stay true to her spiritual path and feels that the future of nunneries will be bright, despite the obstacles she and the other nuns at Jachung Karmo face in attracting good teachers to their remote location. “Once we can attract good teachers we can learn from them, and then begin to look after ourselves,” she concluded.
Guidance:
“One of my goals is to achieve spiritual enlightenment, but I don’t know if this is possible in this lifetime. I need good teachers and guidance first.” –Ugyen Drolma, 33, head of the Jachung Karmo Nunnery, Punaka
Ugyen Drolma has been at the Jachung Karmo nunnery since it was founded in 1987. Located high on a cliff and reached by a two-and-a-half hour trek through thick jungles, the nunnery is one of the most remote in all of Bhutan. As a result, the nuns have not been able to attract any good teachers who are willing to make the journey to their school. Consequently, the nuns have been limited to learning basic recitations and rituals. Ugyen Drolma’s greatest hope is to find monks who can come and teach Buddhist philosophy, literature, logic and epistemology.
The struggles Ugyen Drolma faces at her nunnery have made her question her opportunities in life as a woman and nun. “If monks are not lazy and work hard, they can have the opportunity to achieve a high level of learning. This is not the same for us. I envy them for having such good teachers,” she confessed. “If I reborn, I hope it is as a man so that I can have a better chance to learn.”
Peace:
“I was afraid I would die like my mother, alone and with no one to care for me, so I chose to come to this nunnery. Now I feel very peaceful and happy being here. I want to die here.” –Bidha, 75 year-old nun who joined the Animdratshang nunnery in Paro at the age of 53
Bidha lost her mother at the age of eleven. At thriteen, she lost her father. Though she had one sister, she lived most of her life alone, having no children and having never married.
Her infectious smile showed none of her life’s loneliness or struggle. In fact, of the forty-three nuns at the Animdratshang nunnery, Bidha seemed the most playful and content.
Seven going on nirvana:
“I felt a calling.” –Dawa, 7, the youngest nun at the Jachung Karmo Nunnery in Punaka.
Dawa followed her aunt, Pema Dema, when she left her village in 2005 to join the Jachung Karmo nunnery. She adored her aunt and wanted to be with her. Now she feels her future is at the nunnery, and has no desire to leave.
Offering:
“Maybe I joined the nunnery because it was my karma.”–Molan Zangmo, 25, store in charge at the Karma Drubdey Meditation and Retreat Center, Trongsa
Molan Zangmo holds her nun’s robes in front of her mouth in a gesture of respect used when receiving blessings or giving offerings to the Buddha or other deities.
She joined the nunnery at the age of sixteen, and felt that she had no idea why she joined except that she felt it was her destiny.
Her greatest hope is to benefit through her prayers all sentient beings, and wishes for universal peace. |  |  | FLAG THIS STORY FOR REVIEW | |
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